I bought a new 2010 caravan se with 4 miles on it on 9-3-10 an noticed the dust on the rear wheels right off . I looked @ the cable from the pedal to the rear brake pads an saw that the merge of the cables one cable from the pedal to a splitter located just under the drivers side rear door where it splite going to each wheel had retaining lugs looking like round fishing weights that fit into holes one from the front & one for each rear wheel . One of the round retainer lugs was not in its proper place taking up all the slack & holding the brakes on . I took a pair of plyers an over powered the lug forcing into it prospective place . No more brake ware. I have over 9,000 miles with no problems . I modified the map sensor an went from 20 mpg to 30 mpg on the highway mpg an 23 mpg around town believe it or not with a 3.3 engine . Use the 89 oct. gas for max power mine is bad fast for a small 3.3 with the M.A.P. mod. will out run a 3.8 @ a 25 mile roll & get 7 mpg over the 4.0 . good luck on the brakes . I drive my Goat like I stole it !!!! mine has no top end limiter ! My Goat is a top speed King that reminds me of 44 years ago I bought a new Road Runner comming home from the Army that would do 145-150 mph eaisly.

 

Well, here is an update on my recent experience with my 2010 Dodge sxt.
After my last entry here, I did complain to my local new assistant Service Manager. He seemed like a nice understanding man who wanted to help solve the problem. He listened to all that had happened and agreed something wasn't right. So he had his mechanic take the brakes apart and check everything. He said the one caliper that had overheated didn't act right so replaced it. We both agreed it likely wasn't the whole problem but it is a start. Last year when I was first aware of the problem BOTH rear brakes were overheating, intermittently. Sometimes one side and then the other. However, he said he couldn't replace the other caliper until that side showed signs of acting up too.
So I am watching them closely now. People probably wonder why this guy jumps out of his van and runs around feeling of the wheels! :-)
TTSC's Mechanic may very well be correct that they changed the braking ratio to 50/50 or so, but why not simply explain that to people?? Rather than the lame excuse that our salty roads require cleaning every 18-20,000 miles? All that does is put money in the dealer's pocket. The brakes still wear out early.
Everyone should keep all their receipts, log all complaints and just maybe a class action will come out of this. (Hope no one has to die first) Also, if you get no satisfaction from your dealer, Do as TTSC did and find a good reputable mechanic to regularly check and service your brakes. Keep all records about this too. It will be cheaper and give you some peace of mind.
I still feel the TLC system may be part of the problem, applying braking when it is NOT needed. I turn mine off while driving on dry roads.
Keep us all posted on any changes.

 

I'll throw this into the pot for general knowledge. The best way to warp a rotor is to haul down from 120km/hr to zero, at a stop light, and keep your foot on the brake. While the rest of the rotor cools down, when at rest, the area where the hot pad is won't cool down at the same rate. The result is a warped rotor.
Solution? Put it in park and release the brakes or better yet, inch forward to move the hot pad to a different area of the rotor.

 

I have an 09 caravan and also experienced intermittent heating/sqealing/hanging on back wheels. Shortly thereafter(35K) I replaced the pads and found that the pads were hanging up in the slides(stainless pieces). I filed off the rust on the guides and protected from further corrosion with never seize before reinstalling the SS clips(I also lubed the pad slide tabs lightly). Make certain that the pads slide easily! No problem since ~ +28k

 

X2 I lube the stainless clips on both sides and bend them so that they hold the pad firmly (no play) and bend the center ear of the clip to keep the pad firmly in the caliper. If the pads and clips are loose, you get a rattle over bumps. Also lube the back of each pad where it sits against the caliper body and pistons and lube the caliper guide pins. No squeal and nice even wear on the pads.

 

I have had 4 caravans now and never warped a rotor. Just lucky I guess. But Montreal300 is right, as is a way to warp them, and burn the pads too. Intermittent braking on steep downhill roads is better too.
And yes, I do as dan865 does with the ss clips and tabs. I have watched as supposedly "Good" mechanics changed brakes. They lube the guide pins but ignore cleaning and lubing the pad tabs, ss clips and contact points. I pointed it out and one man said "Oh there is so much pressure in a brake system that it won't matter about a little rust and dirt there." What most people don't realize it that there is NO pressure applied to release the pad contact from the rotor. So, if the guides, tabs or other parts bind or DON"T release properly, the pads will stay in contact even slightly, causing heat, wear and less gas millage.

 

most problem I find is in the brake pad holder with rust under the steel clips binding the pads .the oem pads come with a warning about cleaning the slides ,living in a salt belt area I see a pile of them .still no excuse for wearing out so soon.

 

At 20,000 miles replaced rear brakes and rotors. Car had a shake. broughht it back in and was told rear rotors were warped. had them recut again. Still had brake shake. Told i needed new rear brakes and rotors at 40,000 miles. Told Dodge that if all i am going to get is 20k out of your parts i will put in after market parts. Tomorow i plan on replaceing them myself. +++I may put in drilled rotors if problem persist. If rotors are warping then it may be locking up. Also, the wife is only getting 12mpg city which agrees with them locking and draging. well tomorow i will know more. If not i plan on getting good at replaceing them.

 

Who do I make a complaint about the brakes too. There should be something covereed under the warrenty like they did for the front brakes

 

Keep us updated.
12 mpg is totally unacceptable. With your history of brake problems, It is evident the brakes are dragging or staying on a lot. Yes, you can save a lot by cleaning and replacing the brakes often yourself but that won't help your mileage. I still feel problem is in the ESP or antilock brake systems. The computer is falsely applying or not releasing the brakes. I am running with the ESP turned off now and haven't found a hot wheel. But since the problem has been so intermittent, I can't be sure yet.
I haven't been able to find any way to enter complaints to the company other than through the dealer.