I am getting error code P0152:
Which means:
2/1 sensor shorted to voltage oxygen sensor input voltage.
Translated (thanks to these forums) basically means "replace h20 sensor passenger side before converter"

Please correct me if I'm wrong as I am no mechanic.

Upon researching again through these forums I found out that NGK also known as NTK is the original OEM oxygen sensor, and seems to be most recommended.

I just give you a quick run down. (my previous exhaust was custom but it failed an out of province inspection) So i purchased a walker Catalytic Converter (with y pipe) Part 56092. Click to see image of my cat

That new exhaust runs down the passenger side to the tailpipe.

I am looking for the sensor that is between the cat and the motor.

I go to NGK website and they have pre cat left, and pre cat right. I assume mine was pre cat right reg club cab (even though mines technically a crew cab.) since my exhaust is on the passanger side.
The link to NGK/NTK H2O sensors for my truck

I do a few searchs on NGK 23135 (pre cat right).. and its seems this is compatible with my truck but just to double check i checked NGK 23137 (pre cat left) and this too is compatible with my truck.

Since I believe I only have 2 sensors
1 pre cat also known as upstream and,
1 post cat or downstream

which of these 2 are the correct OEM product? NGK 23137 or NGK 23135

They make these parts lists so confusing i swear..

I would prefer purchasing something cheaper but I have read oxygen sensor can be different amps ect. and overall I just want one that is reliable, and give me the best possible fuel millage.

Any tips?

 

Ok I wil shorten this up a bit.

Is this the 2/1 o2 sensor port for my truck.My truck specs in signature.


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And what NTK o2 sensor is for my truck ( need the 2/1 o2 sensor)

NTK 23137?

or

NTK 23135?

PS. have error code p0152

 

Do both sensors have OEM wiring connectors or is one the type where you have to splice the wires? You have to be careful ordering them to get the OEM connector if that is what you want, definately easier. I don't know what the 2/1 means, but my truck had one pre cat and one post cat sensor.

I ordered my NGK/NTK O2 sensors through Oxygensensorsplus.com and they were definately cheaper. Got both sensors for about what I would have paid for one and free shipping. You can also call them and they will help you determine what is needed for your truck.

 

"2/1" means 2nd cylinder bank (presumably 4-6 or 4-8), 1st sensor (pre-cat). "V" engines have at least 4 sensors, one pre-cat and one post for each cylinder bank. Pre-cat sensors measure unburned fuel to allow the ECU to determine what fuel mapping should be used. The post cat sensor measures unburned fuel after running through the cat so the ECU can determine the difference pre and post cat, IOW, is the cat doing its job. The signals are in the form of a voltage between 0.1 and 1 Volt and fluctuate like a sine wave, usually in the range of 0.3 and 0.8 volt, + or -. When O2 sensors start to reach life expectancy (roughly 80k miles) they tend to slowdown (like an older person slows down with a walker). Normally they fluctuate twice per second but may slow to once every five seconds, resulting in codes like sensor stuck high (or low), or sensor out of range, etc. The only remedy is replacement. If one is failing, likely the other will be shortly. Your mileage will suffer with faulty O2 sensors as the ECU will ignore sensors producing codes and will remap fuel to default settings, often running rich to protect from a perceived lean condition. As far as your question which sensor to use, that would depend on whether your new exhaust arrangement has the "left" or "right" bank sensors now. It is likely that either will fit/work, but if there is a difference between left or right (bank 1 or 2) sensors then you will need to determine which you are using now. Does the current one have any labeling?

 

Yes square 4 wire connectors

I believe it means bank 2 sensor 1.(from what I gathered that means the 1st sensor leaving the 2nd firing chamber, and on my truck that is the passenger side sensor between the catalytic and the motor). Mechanics, correct me if I'm wrong though.

Thanks I will look into that web-sight. Curious how long was it before you got your sensor?

OK the mechanic has LF connected to precat(arrow above), RF connected to the post cat, RR is on a "pad looking" closed circuit (see image below), LR on a "pad looking" closed circuit.Shouldn't it be on RF + RR or LF + LR or am I mistaken?

Also I'm curious is my truck a california emion truck? I found this label stuck to the hood of my truck



And if it is that means I would need a different O2 sensor....

Are you 100% sure about that? I have a V6 and, I have only 2 I know of but, I do have 4 plugs 2 of which have the "pad looking" circuit completer on them(notice its labeled R/R (it looks like r/f but its R/R) As stated above this is a brand new exahaust so maybe something is wrong, my previous exhaust was custom with no catalytic converter at all.

If it helps at all the passanger lside of my motor = 2,4,6
and driver (right) side = 1,3,5

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Anyone?

 

It toook about 3 days for me to get my sensors if I remember correctly. Came from Ohio and I am in Indiana.

You could always pull your sensors out and get the numbers off of them and replace them until you get your new sensors. That is what I did so I knew I got exactly what I needed.

 

The picture you linked to of your Walker catalytic converter and pipe assembly is a normal single cat / dual O2 sensor setup, and that may be the problem.

Your hood sticker seems to indicate that you have California-type emissions. California-type emissions are not limited to just California by the way; some other states have adopted "The People's Republik of Kalifornia's" absurd regulations as well. For example, my truck has California-type emissions here in Maine, which is something known as "Northeast emissions" which went into effect for LDVs (light-duty vehicles) in Maine and a few other northeast states in 2001 (lucky me).

If you do have California-type emissions, then you should have 3 catalytic converters and 4 O2 sensors, like this:



The 4 O2 sensors mount before and after the two mini-cats.

The NTK part numbers for the California-type emissions (3 catalytic converters and 4 O2 sensors) are as follows:

Pre-cat left (driver side, AKA: 1/1) - 23137
Pre-cat right (passenger side, AKA: 2/1) - 23135
Post-cat left & right (1/2 & 2/2) - 23132

If your truck did indeed come equipped with the normal federal-type emissions (single cat / dual O2 sensor setup like the Walker 56092 setup you installed), then it would be as follows:

Pre-cat - 23138
Post-cat - 23141

You could install those two O2 sensors (23138 & 23141) into your Walker 56092 setup, but if your PCM is expecting the 4 O2 sensor setup, it may not like it.

I'm guessing that those "circuit completers" are a workaround, as I doubt the factory would have 4 O2 sensor plugs in the harness and then bypass 2 of them (anyone can feel free to correct me if I'm wrong). I'd think it is almost certain that your truck originally came with 4 O2 sensors and the tri-cat setup like in the picture I posted.

 

This s what i was scared of once I really looked into this.. I already dumped almost 2k into this truck ( new cat, almost all exhaust, wipers, break drums, break shoes, Battery mount, plug wires, tune up, fluids, clockspring, filters)and I truly cant afford to go buy a second cat and start all over from scratch. I figure you may be right and because my error code is spewing 2/1 error code and I do also believe my truck is California so I ordered 23135 sensor and I'm hoping I can "fool" it into thinking the sensors are all hooked up.

 

I hope it works out for you. In case you don't know already, the 2/1 O2 sensor plug from the truck's wiring harness is near the firewall (passenger side) behind the engine. It can be reached from under the hood, though you might scratch up your arm in the process like I did.

You are probably going to have a problem plugging it in though, because your catalytic converter setup has the O2 sensor threaded bosses in completely different locations than the California setup, and the wires coming off the 23135 O2 sensor are short (because the California setup 2/1 boss is pretty close to where the O2 sensor needs to plug in). You could splice in wires to make them longer though (use splice caps with a quality crimper, i.e., an anvil-type crimper).

And yeah, now that I think about it, you definitely are supposed to have the California setup with 4 O2 sensors, simply because of the 2/1 code. On the federal setup which only has 2 O2 sensors, there is no 2/1, only 1/1 and 1/2. From the FSM:

By the way, is this causing your truck to run poorly? Mine was running poorly with a check-engine light and a couple error codes for the 1/1 O2 sensor. A few days ago I replaced 1/1 and also 2/1 while I was at it, with NTK O2 sensors, reset the PCM, and the check-engine light hasn't come back on and it has been running perfectly ever since; not a single hitch so far.