Rear Differential Oil Change
#1
Rear Differential Oil Change
Hey, I own a 1993 Dodge Dakota 4x4 auto trans and a V6 engine with about 172,000 miles on it. Tomorrow I'm going to be doing my first differential oil change and I need to know some do's and don'ts. I read my repair manual and watched some mechanic videos so I'm ready to do the job.
list of questions>>>
1. What kind of differential oil is recommend to refill my rear axle and how much oil should I put in the axle differential?
2. I would like to clean the rust off the rear axle and then paint it black for protection against the elements and looks. What kind of paint should I use and rust remover?
3. If you look at the photo below you can see that the oil is leaking from the black rubber plug in the center and I would like to know why it's leaking from that rubber plug?
anybody know?? Thankyou
list of questions>>>
1. What kind of differential oil is recommend to refill my rear axle and how much oil should I put in the axle differential?
2. I would like to clean the rust off the rear axle and then paint it black for protection against the elements and looks. What kind of paint should I use and rust remover?
3. If you look at the photo below you can see that the oil is leaking from the black rubber plug in the center and I would like to know why it's leaking from that rubber plug?
anybody know?? Thankyou
#2
1. I use 75w90 Mobil Synthetic in mine
2. Hit it with a wire brush in a drill and coat it with a good brand rust preventive paint, Krylon or Rusoleum.
3. I've never seen a plug that didn't seep a little, if you think it's excessive buy a new plug. Just keep in mind the new one will probably leave a trail also.
2. Hit it with a wire brush in a drill and coat it with a good brand rust preventive paint, Krylon or Rusoleum.
3. I've never seen a plug that didn't seep a little, if you think it's excessive buy a new plug. Just keep in mind the new one will probably leave a trail also.
#3
1. I use 75w90 Mobil Synthetic in mine
2. Hit it with a wire brush in a drill and coat it with a good brand rust preventive paint, Krylon or Rusoleum.
3. I've never seen a plug that didn't seep a little, if you think it's excessive buy a new plug. Just keep in mind the new one will probably leave a trail also.
2. Hit it with a wire brush in a drill and coat it with a good brand rust preventive paint, Krylon or Rusoleum.
3. I've never seen a plug that didn't seep a little, if you think it's excessive buy a new plug. Just keep in mind the new one will probably leave a trail also.
#4
1) The 1995 FSM recommends using 80W-90 gear oil. I assume there is no difference for '93. When I filled my differentials, I actually used Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It said on the bottle you can use 100% capacity in differentials, and it has worked out great for me. Also, if you have a limited slip differential, be sure to add 4 ounces of friction additive. As for capacity, its 2.1L, but instead of worrying about measuring it out, just fill it up to the bottom of the fill hole as long as you're on flat ground.
2) I would start by scrubbing it down with car wash soap and a green scotchbrite pad. This will get the oil and dirt off of it as well as start scuffing it up. Then, use 220-320 grit sandpaper, or if you have air or power tools, use a roloc fiber disc. I would recommend just spraying it with black rustoleum spray can paint.
3) That rubber plug is probably dry rotted. Replace it when you get the oil and while you're prepping it for paint, be sure to clean up the hole.
2) I would start by scrubbing it down with car wash soap and a green scotchbrite pad. This will get the oil and dirt off of it as well as start scuffing it up. Then, use 220-320 grit sandpaper, or if you have air or power tools, use a roloc fiber disc. I would recommend just spraying it with black rustoleum spray can paint.
3) That rubber plug is probably dry rotted. Replace it when you get the oil and while you're prepping it for paint, be sure to clean up the hole.
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#8
All kidding aside, There may be a proper way to do it, then there's the way you choose to do it. I usually pop the drain plug off first just to get that little bit off the top. Then I start unbolting the cover from the bottom up. Once the bottom bolts are completely out and the others are progressively looser as you go towards the top, I use my gasket scraper to loosen the cover from the bottom and let the remaining fluid drain into my pan. Once the cover is completely removed I usually check for wear and metal shavings. If all is good, I remove the rest of the fluid with a turkey baster and make sure everything inside is good to go. I clean off the cover real well with some solvent, goop on the form-a-gasket and tighten it up to specs. replace the fluid with 90w gear oil to prescribed height and pop the cleaned or new drain plug back in. See that wasn't so hard....right?
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